A Tour through the Ourthe Valley

The south of Belgium is known for its low mountain ranges and river valleys, lined with sometimes adventurous rock formations as well as castles and palaces. The most famous is the Meuse Valley between Namur and the French border.

Of course, there are other scenic river valleys. One that I particularly like is the Ourthe Valley, which, apart from a few places, still seems to be a special hidden gem, even though it begins just south of Liège.

The Ourthe is a right-bank tributary of the Meuse. It originates from the confluence of the Eastern Ourthe (whose source is near the village of Ourthe in the municipality of Gouvy) and the Western Ourthe (whose source is near the village of Ourt in the municipality of Libramont-Chevigny), both in the Luxembourg province of Belgium. In the province of Liège, south of the city of Liège, the Ourthe flows into the Meuse.

Let’s take a small journey along the Ourthe from Liège to La Roche-en-Ardenne. The travel times and distances given refer to car travel.

Note: To keep this article reasonably concise, I have focused on the main highlights. There are numerous other sights along the route.

Liège

Liège is a fascinating major city on the Meuse and Ourthe rivers, with a history that extends far beyond the industrial age. In the city center, you will find impressive churches, architectural treasures, and old quarters framed by hills with stair-streets, parks, and spectacular viewpoints.

Nevertheless, Liège is not a typical tourist destination: Liège has suffered badly from the decline of heavy industry. Despite massive efforts in the form of impressive urban development projects, the city still struggles, which is evident in many places.

Liège has enough attractions for a stay of several days. If you prefer a more relaxed start, begin your Ourthe tour at the southern tip of the Meuse Island at La Boverie, not far from the Ourthe’s mouth.

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Driving time Liège-Angleur – Esneux-Tilff: 8 min (9 km)

Tilff

Tilff (municipality of Esneux) is a small village located just south of the Liège-Sart Tilman hills (home to university buildings and the university hospital). You can take the E 25 highway, which offers impressive views as you approach Tilff.

Tilff has a quiet, picturesque riverbank and a charming shopping street running parallel to it. An architecturally interesting two-story bridge connects the well designed main square with the Saint Léger Church and the historic train station on the opposite side, which is perhaps one of the most beautifully situated railway stations in Belgium.

Driving time Esneux-Tilff – Esneux: 6 min (5 km)

Esneux

The slightly larger village of Esneux impresses with its panorama: from the bridge, you can see a riverside with beautiful facades that house cosy cafés and restaurants, overlooked by the Saint-Hubert Church (accessible via a stair-street) and a historic castle in a confectionery-like architectural style (privately owned). Esneux is great for hiking, and afterward, you can relax in one of the cafés or restaurants.

Driving time Esneux – Comblain-au-Pont: 11 min (10 km)

Comblain-au-Pont

Comblain-au-Pont is my secret tip. While it may look unremarkable at the riverbank, the gentle climb to Place Leblanc is well worth it. At its end, you will find not only the Comblain-au-Pont Church but also the Saint Martin Hill. The ascent just behind the buildings of the square is picturesque, and at the top, there is an old, small cemetery with a tower. The view from the hill over the village is impressive. On the other side of the river, there is another scenic viewpoint on Rue du Thier Pirard (the part beyond the first hairpin bend can only be accessed on foot).

Driving time Comblain-au-Pont – Hamoir: 9 min (8 km)

Hamoir

Hamoir has everything a village in this area needs: a cozy riverside, a shopping street (Rue du Pont), a church (de la Vierge-Marie de Hamoir), and a rock formation. The Rocher de Coisse is particularly impressive, accessible only on foot, but it offers a magnificent view of the village.

Hamoir is also a hub for travelers with its train station. The municipality belongs to four different natural regions: the Ardennes (in the forests east of Filot), the Calestienne (in Filot), the Famenne (in a large part of Hamoir, Fairon, and Comblain-la-Tour), and the Condroz (in Sparmont and Lawé).

Driving time Hamoir – Ferrières-Logne: 10 min (9 km)

Logne

Logne (municipality of Ferrières) is a tiny village (a hamlet of the village Vieuxville) with a major highlight: Logne is best known for the ruins of its medieval castle, rising on its western flank. It is located in the tourist-friendly Domaine de Palogne, which features a museum and various recreational activities.

Driving time Ferrières-Logne – Durbuy-Bomal: 5 min (4 km)

Bomal

Bomal (municipality of Durbuy) is a pleasant village, though somewhat quiet and unremarkable. However, it boasts a true highlight on this journey: the Rocher du Calvaire. From Champoutre (a narrow commercial area squeezed between railway tracks and a hill), a short but rather strenuous climb leads to the Calvary Rock, offering a breathtaking view of the village and its surroundings.

Driving time Durbuy-Bomal – Durbuy: 9 min (8 km)

Durbuy

Durbuy, known as the smallest city in the world, is no longer a hidden gem. It is famous for its charming old town filled with beautiful hotels, restaurants, cafés, and shops. Additionally, the city offers numerous (sporty) leisure activities in the Durbuy Adventure Valley. In summer, Durbuy has a holiday atmosphere similar to the coast, but remains very relaxed.

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Driving time Durbuy – Hotton: 12 min (12 km)

Hotton

Hotton is tiny but charming. It features green riverbanks, an Ourthe island with an idyllic park, and the Notre-Dame Consolatrice Church, which almost stands in the water.

Driving time Hotton – La Roche-en-Ardenne: 15 min (17 km)

La Roche-en-Ardenne

We reach our final destination, La Roche-en-Ardenne. A picture-perfect small town and a prime example of an Ardennes village: a winding river, squeezed between hills and rocks, beautiful riverbanks, a picturesque old town, and a castle (castle ruins) on a rock – the “Rock of the Ardennes”. La Roche is somewhat remote and overshadowed by more famous places like Dinant or Bouillon, but it is well worth visiting. While the castle itself is a must-see, the best view of the village (including the castle) is from the higher Belvédère de la Roche.

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The return journey to Liège only takes 45 minutes.

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High Fens: unique Nature in every Season

The High Fens (Hautes Fagnes) in eastern Belgium offer nature lovers and adventurers impressive landscapes. Part of the High Fens-Eifel Nature Park, this region stretches from the picturesque Belgian towns of Eupen, Spa, and Malmedy in the province of Liège to beyond the German border.

Large areas of the region are raised bogs, which is where its name originates. At 694 meters above sea level, Botrange is both the highest point in the High Fens and the highest mountain in Belgium.

With its vast moorlands, dense coniferous forests, and rare plant and animal species, the High Fens are a paradise for hikers, nature enthusiasts, and photographers. Additionally, the region features several noteworthy reservoirs, such as the Gileppe Dam in Jalhay and the Weser Dam in Eupen.

Geology, Vegetation and Wildlife

The area is characterized by its unique geology and vegetation. The raised bog, one of the oldest and largest of its kind in Europe, was formed during the last Ice Age and has developed over thousands of years. Its defining features are extensive peatlands covered with heather, cotton grass, and mosses, as well as abundant water that flows throughout the region.

Beyond its natural beauty, the High Fens are also a significant refuge for rare animal species. Ornithologists will be thrilled by the diversity of birdlife, including cranes, black storks, and hen harriers. Foxes, deer, and wild boars also inhabit the area and can sometimes be spotted with a bit of luck.

A highlight of the High Fens is the extraordinary tranquility that prevails in this pristine natural environment. Visitors can explore the sensitive ecosystem on wooden boardwalks, known as “plank trails”, without causing harm. These trails are a hallmark of the region and lead to some of the most stunning viewpoints.

Discover the High Fens

For visitors, there are numerous ways to experience the area. At the heart of the High Fens lies the Botrange Nature Center, which serves as an information and educational hub. Here, guests can learn about the history, geology, and ecosystem of the moorland. Guided hikes are also offered, where experts provide fascinating insights into the flora and fauna. However, the High Fens are equally suited to independent exploration, thanks to countless well-marked hiking trails.

The High Fens are a year-round experience. Spring attracts visitors with blooming nature, summer offers cooler temperatures in the moorland for extended hikes, autumn dazzles with its vibrant colors, and winter transforms the area into a snow-covered fairytale land.

The climate is harsh by West European standards, with abundant clouds, rain, and snow. The Ardennes heights are the first mountain range to encounter moist Atlantic air from the west. On average, there are about 220 to 230 days of precipitation annually, with fog occurring on 160 to 180 days and snow cover lasting about 70 to 80 days. Despite the generally wet climate, longer dry periods can sometimes occur, especially in spring and early summer, which can lead to peat fires in extreme cases.

Most snow falls between December and March, the local peak season for winter sports. However, a thin snow cover has occasionally been observed on the Fens plateau as early as October or as late as May.

My personal Favorites

“Signal de Botrange” is Belgium’s highest point, located on a plateau. A visit is particularly worthwhile in winter, though warm clothing is recommended. A walk through snow, frozen coniferous forests, and dense fog is a unique experience. Afterward, you can relax in one of the area’s charming inns. Popular spots include Le Signal de Botrange, Le Mont Rigi, and La Baraque Michel.

In sunny, dry weather, regardless of the season, I particularly recommend the “Domaine de Berinzenne” near Spa and the “Brackvenn” in Eupen. On sunny days, the Domaine de Berinzenne evokes a sense of an African savanna – just without the giraffes. At the center of the park, which features several walking circuits, there’s a beautiful, freely accessible observation tower. The Brackvenn trail primarily takes you over wooden boardwalks, sometimes right through deep blue waters.

The Gileppe Dam in Jalhay is impressive in its own right but is further enhanced by a high observation tower with two elevators, a panoramic restaurant, and various recreational offerings such as a climbing park and bike rentals.

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Belgian Ardennes: Paradise for Nature Lovers

The Belgian Ardennes, located in the southeast of Belgium, is a region full of charm, history, and adventure. This hilly to mountainous landscape, with dense forests, idyllic river valleys, and picturesque towns, attracts nature lovers, history enthusiasts, and adventurers alike.

Interesting Places

Here is a selection of the most beautiful places that should not be missed on any trip:

Namur, the capital of Wallonia, lies picturesquely at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre rivers. The Citadel of Namur, one of the largest fortresses in Europe, offers spectacular views and fascinating insights into the region’s history. The old town, with its narrow streets and historic buildings, invites visitors to stroll and explore.

Dinant, located directly on the Meuse, is famous for its majestic Citadel and the striking Church of Notre-Dame, nestled against the rock face. Dinant is also the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, the inventor of the saxophone. A boat trip on the Meuse offers unforgettable views of the city.

Durbuy, known as the “smallest city in the world,” charms visitors with cobblestone streets, cozy restaurants and cafes, lovely shops, and a romantic atmosphere. It is an ideal spot for a relaxing stroll, enjoying regional specialties, or engaging in outdoor activities.

The renowned city of Spa attracts visitors with its thermal springs and a touch of luxury. The city is also the namesake for spas worldwide. Nearby lies the famous Formula 1 racing circuit.

Bouillon, located near the French border, impresses with its castle perched above the Semois River. This medieval fortress tells the story of the Crusader Godfrey of Bouillon.

La Roche-en-Ardenne enchants with its medieval castle ruins and its idyllic setting along the Ourthe River.

These small towns combine culture, history, and nature – making the Ardennes an unforgettable travel destination!

Nature and History

The nature of the Ardennes is equally impressive. Hikers and cyclists can enjoy a network of trails winding through dense forests and rolling hills. The High Fens-Eifel Nature Park is particularly popular, known for its unique moor landscapes and rare flora and fauna. Adventurers can kayak on the Ourthe and Lesse rivers or explore the spectacular Caves of Han, famous for their stalactite formations and an underground river.

For history buffs, the Ardennes is a fascinating destination as well. The region played a significant role in European history, especially during World War II. The Bastogne War Museum, located in the town of Bastogne, provides a poignant insight into the Battle of the Ardennes.

Whether you seek the tranquility of nature, explore historical sites, or crave outdoor adventures, the Belgian Ardennes offer something for you!

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