Tag Archive for: Eupen

Belgium’s German-speaking Community

Anyone traveling by train from Brussels towards Germany reaches, after just under an hour and a half, a Belgian region that many visitors would never expect to find in Belgium: an area where German is the official language. Welcome to the German-speaking Community of Belgium, or Ostbelgien (East Belgium).

Located between the borders of Germany, Luxembourg, and the Netherlands, around 80,000 people live here across nine municipalities. The center is Eupen, a charming town of about 20,000 inhabitants that also serves as the capital. From here, the German city of Aachen is only a few kilometers away and can even be reached by regular bus service. At the same time, direct train connections link Eupen with Brussels, Bruges, and even the Belgian North Sea coast.

This location is precisely what makes the region so unique: linguistically, you are in the German-speaking world; geographically, you are in Belgium; and culturally, you are at a European crossroads.

The German spoken in East Belgium is very close to Standard German but has some regional dialectal influences. The local dialects, collectively called Ripuarian and Moselle Franconian, are linguistically distinct from Standard German and share features with dialects spoken in western Germany.

Do Germans live there?

Yes, but only those who have immigrated. In Raeren, on the border with Aachen, they make up almost half of the population. Otherwise, the German-speaking people are Belgians.

Until the end of the First World War, Eupen, St. Vith, and the surrounding municipalities belonged to the German Empire. It was only in 1920 that these territories became Belgian as a result of the Treaty of Versailles. The language, however, remained the same. More than a century later, most residents still speak German, but they are, of course, Belgians – not only on paper, but also at heart.

The nine Municipalities of East Belgium

The German-speaking Community consists of the municipalities of Amel, Büllingen, Burg-Reuland, Bütgenbach, Eupen, Kelmis, Lontzen, Raeren, and St. Vith.

The northern and southern parts of the region differ considerably. The north, around Eupen, Kelmis, and Raeren, is more urban in character and closely connected to Aachen. In the south, vast landscapes, forests, and the high plateaus of the Eifel dominate the scenery. Here, hikers, cyclists, and nature lovers will find beautiful natural areas.

Smallest Community, remarkable Autonomy

Many visitors are surprised to learn that East Belgium is much more than simply a linguistic region. The German-speaking Community has its own parliament and government, with responsibilities that include education, culture, and parts of social policy. For a region with fewer inhabitants than some medium-sized European cities, this is quite remarkable. This political autonomy plays a significant role in preserving the German language in Belgium.

Multilingualism as everyday Life

Anyone traveling through East Belgium experiences Belgium in a particularly European form. German is the everyday language, French plays an important role, and thanks to the proximity of Germany, Luxembourg, and the Netherlands, speaking multiple languages is a completely normal part of daily life for many people. Perhaps this is exactly what makes the region so appealing: East Belgium is not located on the edge of Europe, but at its very heart. Different European cultures meet here without losing their individual identities.

Complicated yet uncomplicated

If someone claims that Belgium is complicated, they should visit East Belgium. A German-speaking region in French-speaking Wallonia, within trilingual Belgium, bordered by Germany, Luxembourg, and the Netherlands. There are not many places in the world where you can order real Belgian fries and be served in German.

And of course, you can’t visit East Belgium without encountering some border oddities:

Kelmis is located in the German-speaking Community (though it is officially bilingual in German and French) in the Belgium-Germany-Netherlands border triangle. In the 19th century, a small territory called Neutral Moresnet existed here, born out of a dispute over a zinc deposit. Neither Prussia nor the Netherlands could agree on ownership – so a neutral state was created. It had its own administrative structures, its own stamps, and even ambitious plans to turn the territory into an Esperanto state. Only after the First World War did Neutral Moresnet become part of Belgium.

The so-called Vennbahn, once a railway line, belongs entirely to Belgium – even where it runs through Germany. Along the route, small German territories emerge that are cut off from the rest of the country. This situation dates back to the reorganization of Europe after the First World War, when Belgium gained control of the railway line – and thus of the entire strip of land on which it lay. Today, the Vennbahn is a popular cycling path.

In the German town of Roetgen, the Belgian border runs right through the town. On one side of the road is Germany, on the other, Belgium. This can be handy if you want to go shopping on a Sunday.

Grenzgänger

Many people from East Belgium work in Germany, particularly in Aachen; many Germans have moved to East Belgium. Many people from East Belgium shop in Germany, where some things are cheaper; many Germans shop in East Belgium, where other things are cheaper and many shops are open on Sundays. Belgian petrol stations are particularly popular at times.

The German word „Grenzgänger“ cannot simply be translated as „cross-border workers“, it literally means „those who cross borders“.

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High Fens: unique Nature in every Season

The High Fens (Hautes Fagnes) in eastern Belgium offer nature lovers and adventurers impressive landscapes. Part of the High Fens-Eifel Nature Park, this region stretches from the picturesque Belgian towns of Eupen, Spa, and Malmedy in the province of Liège to beyond the German border.

Large areas of the region are raised bogs, which is where its name originates. At 694 meters above sea level, Botrange is both the highest point in the High Fens and the highest mountain in Belgium.

With its vast moorlands, dense coniferous forests, and rare plant and animal species, the High Fens are a paradise for hikers, nature enthusiasts, and photographers. Additionally, the region features several noteworthy reservoirs, such as the Gileppe Dam in Jalhay and the Weser Dam in Eupen.

Geology, Vegetation and Wildlife

The area is characterized by its unique geology and vegetation. The raised bog, one of the oldest and largest of its kind in Europe, was formed during the last Ice Age and has developed over thousands of years. Its defining features are extensive peatlands covered with heather, cotton grass, and mosses, as well as abundant water that flows throughout the region.

Beyond its natural beauty, the High Fens are also a significant refuge for rare animal species. Ornithologists will be thrilled by the diversity of birdlife, including cranes, black storks, and hen harriers. Foxes, deer, and wild boars also inhabit the area and can sometimes be spotted with a bit of luck.

A highlight of the High Fens is the extraordinary tranquility that prevails in this pristine natural environment. Visitors can explore the sensitive ecosystem on wooden boardwalks, known as “plank trails”, without causing harm. These trails are a hallmark of the region and lead to some of the most stunning viewpoints.

Discover the High Fens

For visitors, there are numerous ways to experience the area. At the heart of the High Fens lies the Botrange Nature Center, which serves as an information and educational hub. Here, guests can learn about the history, geology, and ecosystem of the moorland. Guided hikes are also offered, where experts provide fascinating insights into the flora and fauna. However, the High Fens are equally suited to independent exploration, thanks to countless well-marked hiking trails.

The High Fens are a year-round experience. Spring attracts visitors with blooming nature, summer offers cooler temperatures in the moorland for extended hikes, autumn dazzles with its vibrant colors, and winter transforms the area into a snow-covered fairytale land.

The climate is harsh by West European standards, with abundant clouds, rain, and snow. The Ardennes heights are the first mountain range to encounter moist Atlantic air from the west. On average, there are about 220 to 230 days of precipitation annually, with fog occurring on 160 to 180 days and snow cover lasting about 70 to 80 days. Despite the generally wet climate, longer dry periods can sometimes occur, especially in spring and early summer, which can lead to peat fires in extreme cases.

Most snow falls between December and March, the local peak season for winter sports. However, a thin snow cover has occasionally been observed on the Fens plateau as early as October or as late as May.

My personal Favourites

“Signal de Botrange” is Belgium’s highest point, located on a plateau. A visit is particularly worthwhile in winter, though warm clothing is recommended. A walk through snow, frozen coniferous forests, and dense fog is a unique experience. Afterward, you can relax in one of the area’s charming inns. Popular spots include Le Signal de Botrange, Le Mont Rigi, and La Baraque Michel.

In sunny, dry weather, regardless of the season, I particularly recommend the “Domaine de Berinzenne” near Spa and the “Brackvenn” in Eupen. On sunny days, the Domaine de Berinzenne evokes a sense of an African savanna – just without the giraffes. At the center of the park, which features several walking circuits, there’s a beautiful, freely accessible observation tower. The Brackvenn trail primarily takes you over wooden boardwalks, sometimes right through deep blue waters.

The Gileppe Dam in Jalhay is impressive in its own right but is further enhanced by a high observation tower with two elevators, a panoramic restaurant, and various recreational offerings such as a climbing park and bike rentals.

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